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Tool List for the Chopping Board

This list compiles all of the tools that you will need to complete the cabinet project! All buttons will take you to my page on Kit where you can read more of my thoughts on the tool and purchase it if you want to.

Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. The tool on the left of each set (or the top if you’re on mobile) is always my first choice. Despite me being a tool snob, my first choice isn’t always the most expensive!

The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.

The tools marked with green buttons are the essential tools needed. The tools marked in blue will make the project a lot easier but are not essential. The tools marked in red are where you have a choice between various options.

Green Button

Essential tools needed to complete the project. Make sure you have one of these from each row.

Blue Button

Optional tools that are not essential to complete the project, but will make it easier at certain stages​

Red Button

Tools where you have a choice between 2 or more options. For example, a router or a grooving plane. Pick whichever suits you best.

Crosscut Carcass Saw

This will be used to roughly size the material. While you can use the dovetail saw to do this, a crosscut tooth pattern will give you a much cleaner and accurate finish. The word ‘carcass’ refers to the depth of the blade, which is deeper than a usual dovetail saw.

Veritas Crosscut Carcass Saw

I purchased this saw in my first year of woodworking and still use it today!

Dozuki Crosscut Saw

A razor sharp, easy to use crosscut saw that allows incredible control.

Lie-Nielsen Crosscut Saw

The tapered plate is a nice touch, but the saw comes with a heftier price tag.

Bench Plane

This is absolutely essential in being able to flatten material accurately. I would personally recommend a Jack Plane as it would suit the scale of this project perfectly. However you could use a Smoothing Plane if that’s all you have. It just may be a bit more challenging.

Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane

A rock solid tool with tons of versatility. Exquisitely finished too!​

Quangsheng No.62

A versatile style of plane for lower budgets compared to my first choice.

Rider No. 5 Jack Plane

A great all rounder plane that works exactly as intended

Block Plane

A block plane may be useful when flushing off the endgrain as it is easier to balance. However it’s no completely necessary. Your Bench Plane should do the job just fine.

Lie-Nielsen No.60 1/2 Block Plane

A beautifully manufactured tool that I highly recommend.​

Quangsheng 60 1/2 Block Plane

This is the first plane we give to our students at Rycotewood

Rider 60 1/2 Block Plane

A handy size for small jobs such as flushing joinery

Winding Sticks

Winding sticks are used to assess the twist in a piece of timber. Personally, I recommend you purchase a metal pair as they will not be susceptible to seasonal movement. 

Veritas Winding Sticks

A great pair of winding sticks that will not distort over time.

Cutting Gauge

You will use this to scribe the thickness of the timber in later parts of the series. A wheel marking gauge is perfect for this.

Veritas Marking Gauge

It can cut with the grain, across the grain, it leaves a very clean and precise line to work to, and lasts forever!

Quangsheng Marking Gauge

Both WR and QS models are very similar. Slightly bulkier than the Veritas model.

Irwin Cutting Gauge

I recommend re-shaping the blade into a semi-circle as opposed to a point.

Engineers Square

Engineers squares are guaranteed to be square on both the inside and outside edges. Whereas wooden try squares are only guaranteed to be square on the inside edges. A good set of these will last you a lifetime (If you don’t drop them)

Faithfull Engineers Squares

These are way more precise than traditional try squares and do not break the bank either.

Kinex Engineers Square

Reliable precision that is used by our students at Rycotewood Furniture Centre.

Axminster Precision Engineers Square

A basic set of engineers squares. Far more accurate that wooden try squares.


As this project is quite small, you want to ensure that the clamps will not distort the piece during assembly. Lightweight parallel jaw clamps are my go to option for this. While it’s good to have a mixture of lengths, I find the 600mm to be most versatile.

Axminster 600mm Standard Duty Parallel Jaw Clamps

Lightweight, versatile, and will not distort the piece while clamping.

Bessey 600mm UniKlamp

The original parallel jaw clamp. Shares the same benefits at the Axminster ones.

Aluminium Sash Clamp

Good for clamping flat panels but the jaw height can be limiting for boxes.


Titebond 2 has a strong initial tack which is ideal for this project, particularly edge jointing the lid as it prevents the components from slipping in the clamps. Although if you would like a longer window to get the clamps on, Titebond Extend would be better suited.

Titebond 2

My most used glue. Easy to clean up, water resistant, and has a strong initial tack.

Titebond Extend

If you want longer before the glue dries, Titebond extend gives you a larger window.

Titebond 1

Standard Titebond glue that can be used in many wood gluing operations.

Have you got the plans yet?

Package includes working drawings, a cutting list, and a 3d SketchUp model!

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