Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. The tool on the left of each set (or the top if you’re on mobile) is always my first choice. Despite me being a tool snob, my first choice isn’t always the most expensive!
The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.
The tools marked with green buttons are the essential tools needed. The tools marked in blue will make the project a lot easier but are not essential. The tools marked in red are where you have a choice between various options.
Crosscut Carcass Saw
This will be used to roughly size the material. While you can use the dovetail saw to do this, a crosscut tooth pattern will give you a much cleaner and accurate finish. The word ‘carcass’ refers to the depth of the blade, which is deeper than a usual dovetail saw.
Veritas Crosscut Carcass Saw
Dozuki Crosscut Saw
Lie-Nielsen Crosscut Saw
This is absolutely essential in being able to flatten material accurately. I would personally recommend a Jack Plane as it would suit the scale of this project perfectly. However you could use a Smoothing Plane if that’s all you have. It just may be a bit more challenging.
Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane
Rider No. 5 Jack Plane
A block plane may be useful when flushing off the endgrain as it is easier to balance. However it’s no completely necessary. Your Bench Plane should do the job just fine.
Lie-Nielsen No.60 1/2 Block Plane
Quangsheng 60 1/2 Block Plane
Rider 60 1/2 Block Plane
Winding sticks are used to assess the twist in a piece of timber. Personally, I recommend you purchase a metal pair as they will not be susceptible to seasonal movement.
Veritas Winding Sticks
You will use this to scribe the thickness of the timber in later parts of the series. A wheel marking gauge is perfect for this.
Veritas Marking Gauge
Quangsheng Marking Gauge
Irwin Cutting Gauge
Engineers squares are guaranteed to be square on both the inside and outside edges. Whereas wooden try squares are only guaranteed to be square on the inside edges. A good set of these will last you a lifetime (If you don’t drop them)
Faithfull Engineers Squares
Kinex Engineers Square
Axminster Precision Engineers Square
As this project is quite small, you want to ensure that the clamps will not distort the piece during assembly. Lightweight parallel jaw clamps are my go to option for this. While it’s good to have a mixture of lengths, I find the 600mm to be most versatile.
Axminster 600mm Standard Duty Parallel Jaw Clamps
Bessey 600mm UniKlamp
Aluminium Sash Clamp
Titebond 2 has a strong initial tack which is ideal for this project, particularly edge jointing the lid as it prevents the components from slipping in the clamps. Although if you would like a longer window to get the clamps on, Titebond Extend would be better suited.