In this quick video, I will brief you on the project ahead so that you know what to expect and can get the most from this course. Many resources are available at your fingertips so don’t miss the opportunity to make the most of them!
Unsure you have all the right tools for the project? This handy guide helps you choose not only the tools you need, but also gives my recommendations in order of preference. It also provides various options to suit different budgets.
Want to start this project on the right foot? Purchase pre-machined timber in a variety of materials here. Perfect for those who want to avoid the fuss and get stuck straight into the project!
In this lesson, I’ll show you how to edge joint the solid wood panels that make up the sides of the box. This is a third technique that differs from the two I have taught in the past, and is definitely my go-to!
In this lesson, I’ll show you how to layout the mitred dovetails that will hold this box together. The reason we’re using mitred dovetails in this instance is to hide a groove within the top and bottom of the box.
In this lesson, I’ll show you how to cut the dovetail joints for the toolbox by hand, before transferring and fitting them to the pins in the next episode.
In this video, I’m going to show you how to transfer the tails to the pins, as well as how to remove the waste in the sockets. Pay close attention to this one, there’s a few things that if done incorrectly, will cause incredibly annoying errors in later stages.
In this lesson, I’m going to show you how to run the grooves in the top and bottom of the toolbox that will accept the lid and base. This specific lesson focuses on producing the grooves with a router table.
The lid for this toolbox will be made from solid wood, so its extremely important we fit it to allow for seasonal movement. This lesson will show you how to do that, as well as how to refine the fit and aesthetic of the panel itself.
The bottom of the toolbox is constructed using four tongue and groove panels. These are not only durable, but will also allow seasonal movement throughout the year.
Its that scary time, it’s time to cut the mitres. This lesson focuses on the construction and use of a mitre paring jig to ensure your joints are crisp and gap free. It’s also an incredible satisfying process!
Before gluing, we need to fully prepare the insides of the carcass. The reason for this is because the lid and base will prevent access to the inside, therefore making it impossible to remove glue squeeze out.
Clamping blocks will be used to really mash the joints together to ensure any persistent small gaps are closed up. The process of making the blocks is a pretty boring one, but worth its weight in gold with the results it leaves.
Welcome to the scariest part of the project. In this lesson, I’ll be showing you how to use a router to cut a channel around the lid, before removing the remainder using a handsaw. Be sure to practice using a router before doing it for real!
Now that the lid is removed, it’s time to install the hinges. While this is something we’ve covered in the cabinet project, the method of installation we are adopting here differs slightly. Because this time, we’ll be installing the hinges in such a way that the lid stops at 95 degrees.
This stage is optional, but if you want to keep your tools safe, or simply practice a bit of lock fitting on a less risky project, give it a go!
In this lesson, I’ll show you how to create a tool tray that stores smaller tools such as chisels and marking out equipment. Not only that, but we’ll be installing it with a piston fit that descends into the toolbox on a cushion of air.
In this video, I’ll show you how to sand the toolbox to ensure a consistent finish, and an almost seamless gap between the lid and carcass. Don’t rush this stage, we’re not there yet!
In this final lesson, I’ll show you how to finish the box using a protective hardwax oil. While the finish is up to you, I would recommend a simple finish that is easy to reapply in the future. Oil and wax fits the bill perfectly.