Where possible, I have supplied multiple options for each tool to account for different budgets. Keep in mind that these are listed in order of my preference, not necessarily price. The tool on the left of each set (or the top if you’re on mobile) is always my first choice. Despite me being a tool snob, my first choice isn’t always the most expensive!
The majority of the links in this document are affiliate links meaning I get a small commission if you purchase after clicking. This is at no extra cost to you. The buttons below will take you either directly to the tool, or to my page on Kit. This will allow you to read more of my thoughts on the tool before purchase.
The tools marked with green buttons are the essential tools needed. The tools marked in blue will make the project a lot easier but are not essential. The tools marked in red are where you have a choice between various options.
Green Button
Essential tools needed to complete the project. Make sure you have one of these from each row.
Blue Button
Optional tools that are not essential to complete the project, but will make it easier at certain stages
Red Button
Tools where you have a choice between 2 or more options. For example, a router or a grooving plane. Pick whichever suits you best.
Dovetail Saw
An essential tool for every woodworker. Characteristics of a good dovetail saw are a rip tooth pattern, roughly 14tpi. A long plate and a fine kerf is also very desirable. Both of these extra features help you make extra progress with each stroke.
Veritas Dovetail Saw
Japanese Dozuki Saw
Japanese Tatebiki Saw
Crosscut Carcass Saw
This will be used to roughly size the material. While you can use the dovetail saw to do this, a crosscut tooth pattern will give you a much cleaner and accurate finish. The word ‘carcass’ refers to the depth of the blade, which is deeper than a usual dovetail saw.
Veritas Crosscut Carcass Saw
Dozuki Crosscut Saw
Lie-Nielsen Crosscut Saw
Bench Plane
The plane will be used to shoot the ends of the components square and smooth off joints after assembly. I recommend starting with a Jack Plane as it’s a good size for all round woodworking. However a No.4 would also be a good option.
Block Plane
While you can use a bench plane to flush off joinery, they can be cumbersome at times. A block plane is an ideal substitute for this as well as many other tasks. For this project however, you may struggle to dimension the components with a block plane alone.
1/2″ (12.7mm) Chisel
This is probably my most used chisel size. Characteristics of a good chisel are bevel edged with fine points at the bottom of the bevels. This will allow you to get into the bottom corners of the tails without bruising the material.
1/4″ (6.35mm) Chisel
This smaller size is much more precise than the ½ inch size previously mentioned and will be invaluable when cleaning waste between the tails.
3/4″ (19mm) Chisel
Not essential for this project but very useful in the long run. If I could only choose 3 chisels, it would be a ¾ inch, a ½ inch and a ¼ inch.
Cutting Gauge
Another essential tool for any woodworkers toolkit. This tool is invaluable when laying out joinery as well as a multitude of other workshop tasks.
Veritas Marking Gauge
Quangsheng Marking Gauge
Irwin Cutting Gauge
300mm Ruler
I much prefer a ruler as opposed to a tape measure when laying out fine joinery.
Sliding Bevel
A sliding bevel will be used to define the angles of the dovetails. A dovetail marker is much handier for this specific task, however you’ll probably find the sliding bevel to be more useful in future projects
Dovetail Marker
A dovetail marker is helpful when laying out dovetails because it allows you to draw the pitch of the dovetail as well as square across the endgrain in one pass. If you’re unsure what dovetail ratio to use, this video will help.
Veritas Dovetail Marker
Sterling Dovetail Marker
Marking Knife
I much prefer a scalpel blade for laying out my joinery, specifically a Swann-Morton SM01 blade. However I recognise this isn’t to everyone’s taste!
Custom Marking Knife
Stanley Pocket Knife
Engineers Square
Engineers squares are guaranteed to be square on both the inside and outside edges. Whereas wooden try squares are only guaranteed to be square on the inside edges. A good set of these will last you a lifetime (If you don’t drop them)
Faithfull Engineers Squares
Kinex Engineers Square
Axminster Precision Engineers Square
Awl
This tool is used to mark precise locations prior to drilling and will be used when attaching the base. Any pointy thing will do this task, but this is much nicer.
Axminster Round Awl
Narex Round Awl
Mallet
Used with a chisel to help clear out waste between dovetails as well as tap joints together during assembly.
Clamps
As this project is quite small, you want to ensure that the clamps will not distort the piece during assembly. Lightweight parallel jaw clamps are my go to option for this. While it’s good to have a mixture of lengths, I find the 600mm to be most versatile.
Axminster 600mm Standard Duty Parallel Jaw Clamps
Bessey 600mm UniKlamp
Aluminium Sash Clamp
Titebond
Titebond 2 has a strong initial tack which is ideal for this project, particularly edge jointing the lid as it prevents the components from slipping in the clamps. Although if you would like a longer window to get the clamps on, Titebond Extend would be better suited.
Titebond 2
Titebond Extend
Dovetail Saw Guide
If you’re not confident in your sawing, a dovetail saw guide is an ideal solution. It’s not cheating, it’s simply another means to get the job done.